Roman Forum 2006

Roman Forum 2006
Foro Romano, from the Palatine Hill - a favorite photo from one of my favorite cities

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Blogs Along the Thames: From Kew to Richmond, plus...

I have never been to Kew Gardens. There, I've admitted it! And I would really like to go, in fact have plans to do that just before I head back to the US, as I am waiting for as much to blossom as is possible before 7 May (a day that will live in infamy!). However I can now say that I have been to Kew. After having seen the stop on several of occasions, as I traveled one past it to the end of that section of the District Line of the London Underground at Richmond. I finally got out at Kew, so that I could walk another section of the Thames, from as the title indicates, from Kew to Richmond.

It's a charming little place, Kew, and I would imagine far too expensive for the likes of me. Indeed, what place in London is not far too expensive for the likes of me? 
Finally! The Thames at Kew!
I got to know the residential area better than I ever thought I would, as I got lost in it on my way to the river, and a walk that should have taken about 10 minutes took me 45, and then I was rescued only by the advice of a friendly mail carrier. When I finally arrived the river, I wondered if I was ready for what would be a fairly long trek in comparison to several of my Thames walks, as I was already a bit tired and more than a bit irritated. But I shook that off and set out along a very rural part of the Thames, alongside Kew Gardens, then the Deer Park, opposite Islesworth, and finally on to Richmond.

Kew Pier, close to the start of my walk
It was a warm and sunny afternoon, and several other hikers and not a few bikers shared the trail with me -- an observation -- it's amazing how few of these found time for even a nod at a fellow traveler. Hardly the end of the world, but somewhat surprising and a tad disappointing. In spite of that, however, the walk was a very pleasant one.

A little history? Why not? The village of Kew grew because it was sited on a good place to cross the Thames. The ancient Romans took advantage of this, and while there is no evidence of settlement until the fourteenth century, the Brentford Ford is an important part of what created the village. The village's rise was also tied to nearby Richmond, In the medieval era the Old Deer Park was established between the two communities, and in the 1500s Henry VII had a royal palace built in Richmond. The palace drew nobility to the area, as well as commoners to serve palace and nobles.
Not much of Kew Gardens can be seen
from the path, but Kew Palace can!
Creative landscaping began to take place in Richmond in the early eighteenth century, when Queen Caroline (wife of George II) became the acknowledged patron of English gardening. Launcelot "Capability" Brown and other landscape architects including Charles Bridgeman and William Kent, who worked at Richmond and Kew, became sought after everywhere, and elegant gardens became the vogue. At Kew farm, Kent added onto the existing house and also developed its gardens, which were greatly expanded just after mid-century when William Chambers created The Ruined Arch, the Pagoda, the Mosque and other places that formed the basis of Kew Gardens. The gardens grew until the 1820s when, because of economic conditions and a lack of interest on the part of George IV, a decline began. But from the 1840s to the 1880s a they grew anew, thanks to Queen Victoria's patronage and the vision of the directors of the gardens. Growth has continued until today, and Kew Gardens remains a tremendously popular destination for tourists.

Walking alongside Kew Gardens
Thus wrote the man who walked passed Kew Gardens by about a week ago, in favor of conquering the Thames. And on he walked beside the gardens, past them to the area of Syon House across the river. Dottore Gianni managed to miss seeing the house from the riverbank, and there was no possibility of crossing the river except by going far back to from where he started or continuing all the way to Richmond, crossing there and heading back. So A famous house to be saved for another trip! 

Isleworth
Farther on across the river is Isleworth, a tiny area with some history, including evidence of a Romano-British settlement, a mention in the Domesday Book, and the building of several mansions during the Georgian and Victorian eras. A glimpse from across the river revealed it to me to be a very pleasant place to live, if of course one could possibly afford it.


Only a short distance past Isleworth I came across the Richmond Lock, 
Richmond Lock and Barrage
the furthest downstream lock on the Thames. It's a massive affair and is topped by a pleasant footbridge crossing the river. The lock, which actually consists of a lock and a barrage, was built in 1894 and opens for two hours either side of high tide to allow boats to pass through it. At other times boats must pass via the lock itself, located next to the barrage on the side of the river I where I was walking. There is a five pound charge per boat for that kind of passage.

After the lock it is only a short walk to Richmond proper. I was very glad to get there, as the walk had been a long one, as it included my lost wanderings through Kew. But a very pleasant walk it was!
The riverfront at Richmond
If you noticed the "plus" in the title, here it is: In order to complete my Thames walks in the area west of London I still needed to get from Barnes Bridge to Kew.

The walk from Kew to Barnes Bridge -
the bridge in the distance
And the very next day I did it. I started at Kew, and this time found my way in no time to the river bank. It's another pretty if uneventful walk, with a few pubs right on the banks. I arrived at Barnes Bridge in about 45 minutes, my shortest walk of all, but a satisfying one as for the most part it too was along a quiet and lovely portion of the river, and as it was the last chunk of my walks along that part of the Thames.



The Ship, a pub on the Thames in Barnes

But I was not finished yet! Next time, the Thames Barrier!

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