Memories and Musings: my Recent Trip to Europe IV - Innsbruck

Hello again! 

Continuing with my most recent adventure in Europe, after four days in Bolzano I continued on to Innsbruck (Inn - the river that flows through it; bruck(e) - the bridge over the river Inn) Austria.

A bit of Innsbruck and the River Inn - note the volatile weather

If I remember correctly (which I usually do not) I had the option to take an R&R there while in USAF in 1968, but did not go. Innsbruck is close to Garmisch-Partenkirchen (to which I DID travel), and the landscape is similarly Alpine, but whether or not I was offered the chance I have been curious about Innsbruck since the late '60s and finally sated my curiosity earlier this summer. 

Innsbruck is located in the area of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire where fierce battles took place between the Empire and Italy in the First World War, just about 1 1/2 hours north of Bolzano by train, so that fueled my interest. I also read a novel, down as many quality notches from A Farewell to Arms (in case you've not read earlier posts on the trip, locations in that novel match a number of places I chose to visit) as it's possible to go. Called The Dolomite Solution, by Trevor Scott, the book is a historical (in places hysterical) mystery/spy/adventure novel that is set largely in Innsbruck, featuring cardboard characters and production-line dialogue. I'm not sorry I read it, but I know that I need never pick up a T Scott book again (you shouldn't bother either, unless you like really formulaic books of that kind). It DOES feature a group of fellows trying mightily to capture a major Nazi not long after World War II. In doing so they make use of one the tunnels in the Dolomites that was dug by combatants in the First World War. So, in a sense it was slightly pertinent to my focus - borders and frontiers, problematic for Europe, creating rivalries and nearly constant war for more than 1,000 years, until the formation of the European Union. 

Aside: I'm just praying that BREXIT, the recent stupidity from the not-so United Kingdom, doesn't disturb the delicate balance achieved in creating the EU, potentially leading a slew of other European countries to try the same sort of withdrawal, as there will be an economic collapse, and I wouldn't be surprised to see a revival of the old European practice - more wars. Steady on, Europe!

The street where I lived

While the weather was only slightly better than Bolzano's had been, I found Innsbruck at least as pleasant a place as that lovely Italian town. I was lucky in that I decided to stay in the very center of the Altstadt, or Old Town. I often choose hotels near the rail station in any given place, as I tend to over-worry comings and goings, but this time I risked it, stayed dead center on the main square of Old Town, the view from my room if I looked out my window just to the right I'd see the old city tower, and if I looked a little more to the left I'd see one of the most iconic sights in Innsbruck, the "Golden Roof."

The rather forbidding city tower, from my hotel
room window

The "Golden Roof" - as you see it is - former palace
of Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor

My hostess was very friendly (and had beautiful blue eyes). There were several rooms in the hotel, but its name is not the Hotel Happ but the Weinhaus Happ. So she knew her local wines too, and I tasted several really good ones. 

My colorful hotel, the Weinhaus Happ, and its
convenient restaurant

She gave me simple, good advice upon arrival, and I did not even need a city map to get around. The place IS a real tourist attraction (more in the winter than summer, as there is excellent skiing to be had), and unlike some too many touristic towns Innsbruck has a very good system of direction markers to major sights. I congratulate the powers that be there for that. 

I strolled around the center, found a place to eat whose inside was a Medieval watchtower, now a small hotel and eatery. The weather was iffy, but warm enough and I ate outside instead, a very tasty traditional Alpine meal. Come to think of it, other than breakfast (expansive buffet, served in a large bar area in the Weinhaus Happ) I ate outside every day of my stay at Innsbruck. 

Wurst, potatoes and sauerkraut - what more could I ask from the Ottoburg,
a few blocks from my hotel

As is usual for me, I took an introductory, orienting stroll in the Altstadt and then along the river. I found the place I needed to be early the next morning, when I would begin my journey up into the Alps, saw the Landestheater, the palace, passed through its lovely gardens, the court church, the tourist bureau (of which I had no need, so easy is it to get around without getting lost) and more. It is a very fine place indeed. The only problem? Innsbruck is surrounded by mountains, even more closely than Bolzano, and mountains were a major thrust when I planned this trip - but I saw almost nothing of them, so enwrapped in clouds were they. Alas and alack. In any case, after my exploratory walk I returned to my hotel.

The cloud cover only allowed the lowest peaks around Innsbruck to be seen

I arrived on a Thursday. It so happens that every summer Thursday evening a night of "Shopping and Dancing" is available for tourists and residents in the town center. Stores stay open very late and on at least 5 stages that I counted on my walk dancers of all kinds do their thing. In the square just below my window for instance I saw two very attractive stilt walkers (stiltists?) doing a sort of tango with each other, and later an acrobat who couldn't quite manage her luggage (that was the gimmick and added difficulty factor of her gyrations), before I even went downstairs again to look around. 

Stilted entertainment? From the window of my hotel room

Once out and on the central square again I strolled to a slightly newer section of the city, 

Mariatheresienstrasse, great pedestrian zone

Mariatheresien-strasse (named for the ruler and matriarch Maria Theresa of Austria, who brought many children, including the unfortunate Marie Antoinette, into the world). This huge, thin rectangle is a pedestrian area with some restaurants, a pretty church or two, and MANY places to shop. I think I saw at least three different centers of dancing activity, two on, one just off that street alone. Innsbruck, it appears, is a happening place!

The Congress Center, and in front of it the futuristic entrance to my ride
up into the mountains

The next morning I set out as soon as I'd finished a bountiful breakfast to the "Congress" center, where a new, state of the art system of cog trains and lifts would carry me to the top of the mountains in the area. 

The cog train up to Hungerburg - it begins underground, and is then flat.
As it rises, each car rises as well - you see that effect here - as well as the elusive young woman in the car behind me

Beginning underground in the center, I was swept up in a three car unit, with only the driver and two other passengers (one in each car - exclusive, yes?). I realized that I was doing well in terms of beating the crowds. I took this train up to Hungerburg, the first major linking point (stopping on the way once on the river and again at the Alpenzoo before arriving at Hungerburg). A panoramic view awaits at Hungerburg (located 1067 meters up), and even on a day with very changeable weather I was amazed by the mountain views, and how far I'd climbed (if I dare call riding a train climbing). 

Innsbruck viewed from Hungerburg

But this was just the start. About 20 yards from the futuristic Hungerburg station there was another small terminal, this one housing a cable car which would take me farther up into the mountains. 

Similar to the starting point, the last stop on the Hungerburg portion of the journey is tres modern!

At Hungerford there are several hotels and I was joined on this second portion of the journey upwards by several people, just about all of them dressed for serious mountain hiking. I was not. One man, a strapping fellow in brightly colored mountain gear, carried a unicycle with him - his unique way of getting around on the trails! 

the cable car to the second level, Seegrube - the unicyclist
is at upper right, in the bright garb

View from the cable car as we approached the Seegrube station

After the longest ride of the total ascent we arrived at Seegrube (1905 meters up), a much less populated place than Hungerburg, but with a restaurant at the station, as well as a panoramic view from outside and inside, even more spectacular than at Hungerburg, almost dizzying. On the inside a wall of glass featured, along with outstanding mountain views, quotes about the mountains from famous poets (TS Eliot), philosophers (Friedrich Nietzsche) and even scientists (Albert Einstein). 

Nietzsche quote on the glass (difficult to see his name against the gray wall
below the quote and translation) - nice view too!

When we arrived at the Seegrube level almost all of the hikers left the car and immediately did what they do best - started hiking. There are several trails in different directions and of different levels of difficulty, all too difficult for me! 

Map in Seegrube station - if you look closely - you may have to click on the
pic to enlarge it in order to see this - the dark line going nearly straight up (right
of center, by the river) is the beginning of the Hungerburg line - it
doglegs left and up to the Seegrube station, then doglegs right until the line
ends, at Hafelekar

As I noted in another post I am more gawker than walker and simply waited in the station for a bit, reading the quotations and looking at some informative maps that showed me where I was, how high up I was (high!), and how much higher I'd go (VERY high!!) 

I walked outside, and as I stood at the viewing platform, gazing down in bliss and patting myself on the back for being so far up - and alone - I had a bit of a shock. 

The hiker/climber who surprised me!

I saw a head and shoulders pop up on the other side of the platform, followed (fortunately) by the rest of the body of a hiker! Who knows when he started, who knows from where he started (though I'd guess at the Seegrube level, and much earlier than the others with me on the ride up to that level). I felt a little shame at my own pride when he appeared, nodded at me, and trudged into the station. It's a good thing I hadn't raised my arms and cried out "I'm king of the world!" as he came into view and within hearing range.

It was time to catch the third and final method of transport, another cable car headed far up into the mountains to very near the peak of Hafelekar, about 2300 meters (or about 7500 feet) high. 

On this section of the ride (the first trip of the day, departing at 9 am) I found myself alone in the car with only the operator and a rotund fellow who also worked for the system. I really would be the first to the top that day! (I'd sure as hell beat that hiker). It was a good bit colder when I left the car at Hafelekar. At this level there is only a smallish station, of two levels, the lower the entrance and exit to the cars, the upper a tiny cafe. The views from the viewing platform outside down to Innsbruck, a tiny anthill from up here, are wondrous fair, even on my day, filled with clouds and changeable-weather. 

The wonderful view from the final level at Hafelekar

I walked up a short path called Goethe-weg, named for the famous 18th century "Renaissance" man, a poet, dramatist, nature lover, philosopher. One of the quotes I'd read on the glass at Seegrube was penned by him. This brief hike up was steep enough to get me slightly winded, but it also brought me great joy, as from the vantage point at the end of the path I could see not just down into Innsbruck but across the mountains opposite, 

The view opposite from that of Innsbruck - note the bench

a huge nature park, mountains and greenery. I was delighted by the beauty of this unexpected. Also it was less cloudy in that direction, and the views were slightly better than those toward Innsbruck, though I can only imagine the distant mountains I'd have seen on a clear day. 

Now. I admit that I could have gone still higher, to the very top of Hafelekar, which was clearly visible from my location. 

Looking from Goethe-weg to the very top of Hafelelar

But while the walk was not too distant (though a good bit longer than Goethe-weg, and steeper) I decided that I was not dressed for a higher climb, nor had I the strength for it. Hell, I might have, but why risk heart attack and spoil my day. Right? Of course I'm right.

I should mention that while I wasn't as aware of it earlier in my life, on my trip to Ireland in 2014 I felt an attack of vertigo at the edges of the Cliffs of Moher. In fact at one point on the cliffs, I had to crawl to maintain my equilibrium - humiliating, as others were leaping around like mountain goats...ah well. As I looked out at the mountains opposite the Innsbruck side of Hafelekar I again began to experience vertigo. There was a bench (see two photos up) that I could have sat on to relax and gaze out at the view, but as I approached it I knew it was too close to the edge for me. That dizziness I felt definitely factored in on my decision not to climb farther. 

And so what? I was elated. I'm smiling now, more than two months later, just thinking about it.

Aside: I thought at some point that wonderful morning of line from Jack Kerouac's The Dharma Bums - I loved the Beat writers when I was a youngster. At least I think it was that novel - it might have been from a collection of poems by Gary Snyder (a fellow Beat writer), but I'm pretty sure it was a character (maybe based on Gary Snyder?) in Kerouac's novel that says something to the effect of, "And then I discovered that you can't fall off a mountain." I LOVED that quote, still do, but if I may borrow the words from one of my favorite, if evil) characters from Porgy and Bess, Sportin' Life: "It ain't necessarily so!"

Well! It was all downhill from here, not just so to speak but literally.

At the entrance to the car heading back down the mountain, a farewell in
several languages - reminded me just a tad of The Sound of Music!

Going down! Seegrube station in the distance - just follow the cable...

I rode the car back down from Hafelekar to Seegrube - and by the way there were several people on the car I was to ride as it arrived at Hafelekar. 

At Seegrube I saw some mountain goats from the windows

Then I took the cable car down from Seegrube to Hungerburg. 

On the ride from Seegrube to Hungerburgwe passed through some heavy clouds.
Yipes!

But then Innsbruck came back into view
Whew!

When I exited the car I saw that there were MANY people at the Hungerburg station, including a school group or two. I was VERY happy I'd got an early start.

At Hungerburg I decided to treat myself. I entered a cute cafe and ordered a cappuccino and chose from a huge assortment of cakes the gloppiest, and sat and smiled, ate and drank. What a morning!

My decadent treat at the cafe next to Hungerford Station

The fellow that poured the cappuccino was clearly an expert!

But it wasn't over quite yet. While in the cafe I decided that instead of getting on the cog train at Hungerburg I would take the half hour hike to the Alpenzoo, and so I did. 

Aside/Admission: On my trek I was the ONLY person walking down the mountain - everyone else, and there were many, were walking UP! They were all manner of people; gorgeous young women, ruddy young men, one really old guy and his wife, others in their middle ages. They all greeted me in a friendly manner, even if some of them might have been snickering inside.

Dottore Gianni as mountain man

The walk down was pleasant, but I managed to work up a sweat even walking downhill. The front of my thighs began aching slightly (the next day were quite sore). But about 35-40 minutes later I arrived at the Alpenzoo, which featured only animals from the Alpine region. I had a wonderful time there as well, though as the zoo was built on the hillside I'd been walking down, it meant walking UP if I wanted to see the animals - so I DID walk up the mountain - if just a little bit. I'm not a zoo person, not even an animal person, but this one was quite good. 

All in all I prefer this kind of animal - sculpted

But I will admit it was cool to see it...in person? They call it a Steinbok

This mountain cat may be difficult to see - if so, look at center, about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom - the eyes are scary! This kind of animal I definitely
prefer as a sculpture!

I found myself sweating up a storm by the time I left and found the train stop about 100 yards away. I was more or less dried out by the time I boarded the train. The next thing I knew I was at ground level. What an amazing several hours! At least for this gawker-not-walker, this mountain-climbing-averse old fart.

The rest of the day was not as thrilling - how could it have been? Still, I was pleasantly surprised in the square opposite my hotel by a band concert - and a rather good band it was. As I noted earlier, Innsbruck is a happening place! 

The band concert!

The highlight of my afternoon was the Tyroler Volkskunst Museum or, the Tyrollean Folk Art Museum. This was a delightful and eclectic collection of the Tyrollean past, very well curated. 
I'll let photos speak a thousand words (well, maybe a few captions heh heh):

This St Sebastian seems to  be dancing his way through
being shot by arrows

And this Jesus is ascending to heaven the old fashioned way
- by rope!

I call this "soldier under glass" - it IS a soldier, and
what a headdress - was it ceremonial? or meant to
scare the be-Jesus out of his enemy?

Ach! Eine Hexe! (or, Eek! a witch!)

Some of the exhibition was downright creepy
this is a towel holder - half of the face is of a
queen or princess, the other half, a skull!

And this is titled "The Bird of Self-Knowledge" - love it!

There was a costume exhibition as well, which for me at least was underwhelming. But the museum curators had saved the best for last. At what I thought was the exit from the exhibition I walked toward a door, which opened automatically for me. I entered and found myself walking on a ramp. I was above the floor of the Hofkirche, the court church.

The rather ornately decorated ramp

Looking down to the left I saw the altar area

And looking down to the right, the Monument to the Emperor

A wonderful view, not only of the altar, but of the monument to Emperor Maximilian I, who had a special fondness for Innsbruck. I then exited, into the cloister of the church. Not the top of a mountain perhaps, but a first-class and unique museum.

The Hofkirche cloister

In addition to visiting the Folk Arts Museum I ate, twice, once before my visit, once after. It had been a long and tiring day - in addition to being spectacular - so I went to bed early and slept very well!

The next day was my last, and I took it nice and easy. Concentrating on more strolling the Old Town, and exploring a few more museums. I first looked into the Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl).

An image of the Golden Roof in its museum

This attraction is possibly more interesting for many from the outside, but I enjoyed strolling through the small museum. I learned a good bit more about the Emperor Maximilian. 

Statue of the Emperor Maximilian, Golden Roof

He was nothing if not eccentric, and sadly for him, a spendthrift as well. While he began by being well-loved by the people of Innsbruck and elsewhere, he amassed large debts from several of them. When he fell from grace and was close to dying, he returned to Innsbruck, only to be shut out until he could pay his debt, and he died out in the cold, so to speak. So, while there is a great memorial to him in the court church - his body is not laid to rest there. How the mighty are fallen!

The court ballroom in the palace

After spending a short period of time in that museum, I walked the short distance to the Hof, or Palace. Empress Maria Theresa, a more recent Hapsburg ruler of the Empire (18th century) is, much more the focus of attention here. 

Portrait of Maria Theresa, in the Palace

And she is a most interesting as well as a most powerful person, the only woman of the long-lived Hapsburg dynasty to rule the Empire. She bore 16 children, including Marie Antoinette and to Holy Roman Emperors, Joseph and Leopold. Even more interesting, in my opinion, sharing pride of place with Maria Theresa is Empress Elizabeth, known affectionately as Sisi. She married into the Hapsburgs, her mate the Emperor Franz-Josef I. 

Portrait of Empress Elisabeth, aka Sisi, in the palace

Sisi was a beauty and Franz-Josef loved her passionately, but she was somewhat cool to him.

Sisi's bedroom at the palace

She was ahead of her time, insisting on daily exercises (every palace she resided in had a well equipped gym, built for her), an accomplished equestrienne, riding regularly, and at 50 taking up the art of sword fighting. She also traveled a good bit, perhaps to keep away from her duties and her husband. In 1888 her son Rudolf, heir to the throne, killed himself and his lover at his hunting lodge, Mayerling, by which name the incident is known. Sisi never recovered from it, but continued to travel extensively, though she might well have stayed at home. It was on a visit to Geneva in 1898 that she was assassinated by an Italian anarchist.  As you may guess from this life filled with incident, there have been plays, films, ballets and operettas written about her, and in 1992 a musical called Elisabeth premiered in Vienna and became the most successful German-languge musical of all time, though it never made the move to the US.

As you can probably guess I developed a crush on Sisi a long time ago, and I'll admit that I have probably necessarily elongated an already lengthy post by telling a bit of her story - I could go on, believe me! 

I should point out that while both Maria Theresa and the Empress Sisi spent time at the palace at Innsbruck, the former spent most of her time at the capital, Vienna, and the latter preferred Hungary to Austria. But why should that stop curators from capitalizing on two famous names from Austrian royalty?

In fact, for all the space I have given it, the palace isn't much if you've been to, for example the Schoenbrunn outside of Vienna, or several others more impressive. But it's worth an hour or so of your time, and as one guide book puts it, at this palace you won't have to endure the crowds at places like the Schoenbrunn. I can attest that that is true. If you tire of the palace, drop in at the Cafe Sacher next to it and enjoy a famous Austrian torte!

Aside: While I'm not writing this as a practical guide for tourists I will definitely recommend the Innsbruck Card. I bought a two-day pass and it paid for itself in the morning of day two, as it covered all transport to the mountains and the Alpenzoo. The Folk Art Museum was included, as were all the places I visited on day three. The cost of the museums came to at least 30 Euros. If you plan to do all or most of what I did (or more), the card is a great value.

On this, my last day in Innsbruck, in addition to the strolling and the museums, I ate a tasty lunch and endured a disappointing supper. I was happily surprised when I passed the Golden Roof  later in the day to hear a brass ensemble playing from its balcony. I repeat, a happening city!

The brass ensemble at the Golden Roof

I slept well that night, and the next morning, after another bountiful breakfast, took a taxi driven by a friendly chatty woman, and stepped on board my train to Salzburg. More on the trip, focusing on Slovenia, in the next post!