Quality of writing? That I cannot promise, but here's to my last two days in Seville. These days, pleasant as they were, did not better or even equal my day trip to Ronda and Zahara (see my last post for that), but then that journey was extraordinary. A Spanish friend of mine had told me well before I embarked on this foray across the Atlantic, that in two days one could easily take in the major sights/sites in Seville, and she was right.
So, while I have a few places left to comment upon, to share with you, I'll begin with something I promised in an earlier post. A continuation of how highly Seville regards its writers and the characters in their work.
The first of may come as a bit of a surprise, as he was a mere visitor to Spain, but was in fact one of the first great writers produced by the then budding (now wilting) US of A. Name? Washington Irving, of Ichabod Crane, Sleepy Hollow, Headless Horseman fame - well-timed subject, as Halloween, it seems, is upon us. I had read Irving's book, Tales of the Alhambra, in preparation for the trip, but I hadn't been aware that he was beloved by the citizens of Seville as well. Quite the contrary! As I walked to the meeting point for the Ronda/Zahara tour I stumbled upon a plaque on a wall adorned with flowers, bordering the lovely Murillo Gardens. A tribute to Irving! I'll write in more detail about his book on the Alhambra, where he stayed for a few months at a time when much of it was still in ruins, in my post on Granada, but as I don't arrive there until 28 October, for now, allow me to show you the nice plaque, flowers above it in one photo, and in a second photo what the rest of that section looks like
The text is nearly impossible to read, so here it is: "A Washington Irving, recuerda de su amor, Espana, 30 May 1925"
Nice tribute, pretty wall, si or no?
The next and last literary/performed art piece honored in several different parts of Seville is all about that cigarette girl named Carmen! I took another stumble (constantly stumbling I fear) at the meeting point for the tour mentioned above, just minutes after discovering the Irving tribute. Here it is:
Not at all sure you'll be able to read the text (this time with English translation below the Spanish) of this plaque either, so I'll copy it here:
"Near this place is the location of the old prison where Don Jose, by order of Lieutenant Zuniga, jailed Carmen after the argument in the tobacco factory." Note that is it "signed" by "Sevilla, ciudad de Opera" - would that we place more such tributes pasted about in cities appropriate to them! In some cases we do, in many more cases we do not.
So! The Tobacco Factory! Where would that be I wonder? It has quite the history - at first men only worked there, to roll cigars and cigarettes, then a few women were brought in, and after that women only executed the rolling of tobacco. It became known as the Royal Tobacco Factory, and now is the HQ of the University of Seville! Ole! And, having visited it, it doesn't reek at all of tobacco. Time heals everything. Well not quite everything. The citizens of Spain have bowed to EU rules. but most of them still smoke inveterately.
I happened on the university during my perambulations on the penultimate (sorry - I almost never use either of those "p" words, but the alliterative urge was too much to resist) day of my visit to Seville. Here's the entrance:
And a few shots from inside:
rather elegant for a tobacco factory, yes?
Just across the street, what I'd call student temptations - a line of eateries (drink-eries too if you receive my meaning). Temptations all too near the U - or opportunities to cut classes, whatever you'd call it.
For proof positive of the Carmen connection I give you a pillar at the entrance of the University
and just below the two plaques naming on that pillar naming it the tobacco factory:
and much the prettier of the two:
which just goes to show that "it's very good to be the King" (apologies to Mel Brooks) or at least "REAL" which of course means "Royal."
That's about it for my literary/performing arts commemorations in Seville. But remember, I wasn't looking. These were all stumbles upon, yes? Imagine what I might find WERE I looking! Possibly no more, perhaps I just got lucky, but you never can tell...
Now! I DID see some other sites before I left the city...
friends. The Plaza Espana offers a nice park and a huge building, one side with a moat. The four bridges across the moat represent the four main territories in Spain. A few pics:
the other side of the building
and another, closer shot of the huge building
I also took a tour of the cathedral. It was meant to be a double tour, also featuring the Alcazar, but was stopped from seeing the Alcazar by friends and guidebooks proclaiming it was less than stellar, but more importantly and immediately by a dizziness, a feeling of nausea, as I finished the guided tour of the cathedral. I had bought a package deal: an hour and a half in the cathedral, another two and a half in the Alcazar. I suppose I didn't get my money's worth, but the cathedral was interesting, if for nothing else for its gigantism.
The first thing we saw upon entering the cathedral was this strange crocodile, suspended. The tour guide kept us in suspense as to WHY a croc, but alas, my sudden illness kept me from hearing it.
It is nothing if not large. Our guide told us that those who were building it once stated (I paraphrase) "We'll make it so large they will think us MAD!" They may have had a point
a side altar...then what must the main altar look like - all in good time
Another chapel, this one for the explorers during Spain's golden age
and the most famous explorer of them all, the remains (supposedly) of Christopher Columbus
that's our tour guide telling us the very complicated story of the remains.
And now, the high altar:
Subtle, isn't it? They say that the entire life of Jesus Christ is depicted in those shiny panels. This is all behind a screen of sorts - I got this photo by sticking my camera through a slot.
It is the third largest cathedral in Europe, the first two being St Peter's in Rome and St Paul's in London. AND it is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. The other two are Renaissance in nature.
The following part of the tour was not required, but time was given to climbing the Giralda tour. Don't ask me why but I did. Compared to some climbs it was quite easy, but I was already feeling queazy - I think this may be why I couldn't make the rest of the tour.
SOME of the gargantuan cathedral, from the top of the Giralda Tower, and of course some of the city beyond
and now I must check out of my hotel!
Taking up pen again, or keyboard, or laptop few days later, I repeat: "and now I must check out of my hotel!"
********
The first check-out note was written re my hotel in Cadiz. This time from Cordoba. It is now the morning of 27 October. I've had some wi-fi connectivity issues, and have also been on the go, so it feels like forever since I wrote the above post. It's not quite finished, but I'll polish it off now with a meal and a tree.
Eh?
My last big meal in Seville was on a tree and cafe-lined street near the cathedral. It was simple, outdoors, cool, tasty and satisfying. Not necessarily in that order. The place?
the food? For starters, bread and olives, and the traditional
then, Andalusian-style gaspacho
and finally, an absolutely wonderful tuna and red pepper salad!
Look good? Tasted even better - ole!
Now the tree the cypress tree, to be exact. These monsters are quite usual in this area, and I've photographed several. But THIS one, in Murillo Gardens seemed to be extraordinary even among what I think of as unusual arboreal delights. As usual, the lower parts are more interesting than the upper. See what you think.
Bear with my for a second, but after instant admiration, this tree petrifies me, for a moment at least! Perhaps it is because Halloween is almost upon us. Well, not me, I really don't like the holiday, haven't since just after I was a kid. When I started being paid to dress up in costume, as a professional actor, the thrill of dressing up for a holiday and to scare people (I did that often enough on stage, unintentionally) seemed needless and foolish. Very happy to be out of the US, as I am usually trapped in my apartment, dreading the sound of knocks on the door and the screams of "Trick!" or "Treat!" Up until a year or so ago I bought just enough to feed the few I thought would actually show ,up, and then no one showed up. So now I no longer buy, I just dread that knock of a hopeful kid who will see that the old man has nothing for him.
Anyway, this tree seemed just for an instant a gigantic Halloween trick - the tree that isn't really a tree but a monster just waiting for an unsuspecting soul to stroll by, who stops to look - the "tree" then acts, either swiping at the passerby and destroying/devouring him(or her) OR if the foolish fella or gullible gal manages for a moment to elude its deathly grip, It lifts itself - the root area DOES resemble a huge, ancient, gnarled foot, and chases after it. The poor human doesn't stand a chance!
And on that nightmarish, fantasia-like note, something Washington Irving might get a kick out of, I leave my memories of Seville, and you. Until I can tell you tales of Cadiz, and then Cordoba. Off, oddly enough, to Seville again this morning, for just one night, where I will see a flamenco show. tomorrow morning at this time I will be heading FROM Seville TO Granada, of which I have only the highest hopes!
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