Bloggo Iberico: Spring in Northern Spain 2019 1 - Segovia

In April 2019 I visited Northern Spain. My original intent was to designate it an Easter trip, at least early on in the visit to observe how Spain celebrates Holy Week and Easter Sunday. In part by accident, but also in part intentionally, the focus shifted. 

I flew into Madrid, the way began my two previous trips to Spain. Instead of spending several days there before moving on (2013) or spending one night in the city, largely to overcome jet-lag before hopping a fast train south (2017), I decided to catch a train to my first destination on the same day I landed. It was tiring. While still in the US I had booked a train that left hours after my flight was scheduled to arrive, because I was worried about delays. My instinct proved a good one, as the flight arrived a full hour and a half late. 

From Chamartin station, a view of skyscrapers in the modern part of Madrid

I caught the excellent and inexpensive (or because inexpensive) airport bus and got off before entering the center of the city, at Madrid's second rail station, Chamartin. Luckily I was able to get there shortly before my train pulled out, and in less than an hour I arrived at Segovia, where I would spend my first two nights.

From a distance a good view of the cathedral

It was a city I had visited before, in 2013, but only on an organized day tour from Madrid, which felt more than a little rushed. I fell in love with Segovia then, and was determined that I would give it at least one full day - so I did. 

Heading toward the old town, and the aqueduct, seen at the top, in the distance

My hotel in Segovia, the Infanta Isabel

Beer and tapas in the cosy cafe attached to the hotel

My hotel room was nearly ready when I arrived, and it was

My room, nothing fancy, but nice

suggested that I have a beer and bite in the attached bar. I was happy to, though I confess that the "cerveza" made me even more tired than I already was. Once in my room took only a few moments to freshen up and check my email, then though very sleepy, I set out to rediscover Segovia. It was a crisp, clear spring day, the air was fresh, so off I went.

Off the bedroom, an area to relax in

From the entrance to my hotel, a portion of the cathedral

City Hall, from the front of my hotel

I had booked a hotel on Plaza Mayor, opposite City Hall. At the far end of the plaza is a theatre and opposite that end the cathedral, a small part of which I could see from one of the windows in my room. 

The Juan Bravo Theatre, on the right,
on Plaza Mayor

Plaza Juan Bravo, with his statue at center

I walked down (it IS literally a downhill walk, but an easy grade, which of course makes the walk back up the hill not too difficult) towards the aqueduct, stopping at a square I find as pleasant as Plaza Mayor, named Plaza Juan Bravo, who saved the city centuries ago: Bravo! Good name for a hero, si?

Look at the photo above and the people walking at bottom. If you walk in the opposite direction you will soon come to the Roman Aqueduct.

From a small, mostly pedestrian street into the huge square that is home to the even larger aqueduct is something of a thrill, even if you've trod that same path before.

I had a lovely walk, but I really was jet-lagged, and headed back to the hotel, where I had a few more cervezas before drifting off into a deep sleep.

Next morning, feeling much refreshed, I began to explore Segovia, relishing the chance to have a full day in which to do so.

A brief aside: I have already written about the major sights of Segovia, its cathedral, its Alcazar and above all (literally!) the beautiful aqueduct. While I visited all of them on this trip, I did not go inside the cathedral or the Alcazar. If you'd like to read more about each all you have to do is look to the right of this page, click on the Archive and you'll find the post on my 2013 organized day tour to Segovia and Avila. Rather than dwell on them, I'll try, mostly through photos, to let you in on some of the less-known charms of the city. 

I began by re-visiting the aqueduct. While no one is allowed to walk on it - dangerous to say the least - a bit more than 100 steps up will get you to its upper level - interesting view, and one that the rushed organized tour in 2013 did not allow time for.

As I strolled I saw a building that very much interested me, the Alhondiga (below), an old granary, very Moorish in style, with a poster for the Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions that I so wanted to see.

In fact I also found a sculpted figure of one of those who at one time marched in the processions (at left). The tall, pointed hat could often be seen in processions of old. I saw none in the processions I witnessed later in the trip, but any time I see a painting or a sculpture of such an austere figure with such a hat I must confess that at first at least I can think of just one thing: the Spanish Inquisition!

In fact the city features many public sculptures, varying from the secula this one is called El Favorito (the difficult to see title is in gray stone just below the Favorite's feet, easier to see the artist's name below that)

to the religious, such as this (below), which depicts San Juan de la Cruz (St John of the Cross).

Spotted on a walk that gradually took me to the vicinity of the Alcazar,

    

the above is a photo of the old Knights Templar church of Santa Cruz. My plan was to to trek out to it, but while with the zoom it doesn't seem too far off, I can tell you that I was a bit concerned - the amount of time it would take to get there and back, and whether or not I'd be able to make it back up to the city. I guess I'm not quite the trekkie I once was.

I saw it and other sights in a pretty if sere area below one side of the city walls.The neighborhood I was walking through seemed very posh, and many of the casas featured great views of that rough beauty.

Many tiny old roads wind through the city 

And while not all roads do, this one leads to the Alcazar, the last of the three top attractions (after the aqueduct and the cathedral.

Another look at the Alcazar, the much and fancifully renovated castle where once upon a time lived Isabella (of Ferdinand and...)

I stopped at this fairy tale castle (some say it inspired the castle in Disneyland) only briefly, then headed back towards the center along the walls opposite those next to the Alcazar

The first thing you might notice is that compared to the view from the walls adjacent to the Alcazar, this is a much more green area. 

Impossible to miss on this part of the walk is the view of the cathedral.

The above photo offers more proof that if the grass is not always greener, it certainly is on this side of Segovia.

The above photo offers one of the best views of the cathedral. It is called the Mirador del Museo de Segovia - below, the sign that tells you it's a very good view and the shadowy figure of the photographer (aka Dr Jack)

And if you wonder why the mirador is described as that of the city museum, when you turn away from that great view, this is what you see: The Museum of Segovia, built into the walls of the city

One hears much about the once thriving Jewish communities in Toledo and Cordoba. I had no idea there was a large enclave in Segovia as well.  

The first evidence of it, coming from the direction in which I walked, is the above plaque mapping out the Jewish cemetery, far below the city walls. Here is the path down to it. 

It lies at the edge of the Jewish quarter...well, ghetto. A reminder, when the Catholic monarchs reconquered the country, all the Jews were either forced to leave, to convert to Christianity, or burnt in the Inquisition.

Just past the cemetery and after walking through the above entrance to the city, more of the Jewish "barrio" becomes evident.

There is even a Sephardic cafe! 

Below, I think you might be able to read the cafe's special menu for Passover. If it is difficult, click on the photo and it should enlarge. It was too early for lunch or I would definitely eaten here. 

This old church in the Jewish quarter is well worth a visit,

because it was once the Jewish Synagogue. While there is some evidence of this heritage inside, the building has been almost completely converted into a Christian church. Here'a a look at its altar.

And from the altar to the back of the church

If you look at the far wall you may see some posters. They depict the history of synagogue/church (the quality of the photo is poor, but I include it as it might tempt some of the readers to visit):

One of my favorite views from a city with many lovely views is this one, of rooftops and far beyond, the mountains. 

A good place to end my few notes on this fine city. Salud!