and rather posh on the inside. on the left side were rows of two seats, but the right was reserved for single seats, which for the solivigant, are the only way to travel: both aisle and window, and no strangers sitting too too close to the solo traveler! All this and a friendly trip attendant!
Once in the city, I was very eager to see the beautiful beaches of San Sebastian, located only a few blocks from my hotel. I left my room almost as soon as I'd opened its door and dropped my bags. There are three contiguous beaches in the city, arranged in a sort of semicircle.
The beach on the left, as one looks out toward the Concha Bay, is Playa de la Ondaretta, shown below. In the far distance, at the top of Mount Igueldo, is where one exits the funicular from which a spectacular view can be had. I had time to ride up and back, but decided to wait for a bright sunny day to do so.
To the right of center is Playa de la Zuriolla, which leads to the old town and beyond it Mount Urgull:
Last but not least, the beach in the center is named for the bay, Playa de la Concha. The tiny island to the left of center below is called Santa Clara, which has little beach as well.
One of the great features is the long boardwalk that edges each of the three beaches. I strolled on it in both directions. Below a look left, towards Ondaretta:
and then to the right, in the direction of Zurriola, heading towards the old town below Mount Urgull:
After a satisfying walk despite the unsatisfying day - cloudy though it was, the sea air doesn't discriminate, always fresh and bracing. When I'd had my fill I ate my fill, in an Italian place for lunch just between the seaside and my hotel, decked out, perhaps more than a bit overdone in all things Italian:
I had a pizza, quattro stagione, interestingly divided by white asparagus. It was good, not great, though the wine was fine. And while I don't usually indulge, I was talked into a dessert - a chocolate and orange torta that was lovely to look at, delightful to eat!
Then after coming across a deli of sorts, where I picked up a snack for a light supper later in my room, I strolled back to the hotel, and had a nice long nap.
For the next morning I left the city for a tour along the Basque coast. The weather was much better, and in addition to the lovely French-born but now Spanish Basque guide named Emily there were only three others in the minivan, three wonderful Israelis about my own age. Liberal intellectuals, they loathed Netanyahu, as do I - nearly as much as I do Donald Trump - birds of a feather I fear. Our chats were spirited and stimulating. I couldn't have hoped for better company.
Our first stop was the fishing village of Orio with an old town that dates back to the 12th century, and rises on steep stone hills. Once up in its midst I nearly felt myself pushed gently back in time.
Everywhere there are reminders of its dependance upon the sea, from modernist works, such as this bas-relief sculpture made entirely of sardine tins
to doorways with ships sculpted above them
And even to church interiors, hung with models of ships - this, I was told, is a whaler, hung at the center of the nave in the church of San Nicolas de Bari. The church is prominent in the old town, and completed in the 17th century, though it sits on the foundation of an older church.
One also sees scallop shells. Makes sense, yes, another image of the sea? But these shells are symbols of and markers for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, one of the stops of which is this humble fishing town. Below our guide quietly pointed to one of them, easily identified by his backpack:
Old as the old town is, there is room for the modern. Just next to San Nicolas the work of two Basque artists are represented. One was Eduardo Chillida, whose acquaintance I'd made via a few of his sculptures in the Museo de Belles Artes in Bilbao. The second, Oteiza, was unknown to me, but the two worked together on this project, set in the kind of rock Orio was built upon.
On then towards our next destination. We first stopped high up in the countryside and walked through woods to a brilliant view:
Above, the breathtaking Bay of Biscay, and in the distance two cities. The closer one at left, Zarautz, was seen only from this vista by us, but the second, Getaria, far in the distance at the upper right, was was our next destination..
Getaria is a charmer, and while not nearly as touristic as San Sebastian, is a bit of a hot spot, for the location if nothing else. Our first stop was a central square, devoted to one of the city's favorite sons, Juan Sebastian Alcana, known as the first man who circumnavigated the globe, Wait you'll say, that was Magellan! And Magellan led the expeditionm it's true; but as daring as it was it was also ill-fated, and Alcana's ship was the only one to make it back to Europe. Below is his statue.
Not far from there is a museum devoted to Balenciaga, the fabled fashion designer, but we didn't waste time seeing that (I suppose you now know what I think of high fashion). Instead we went down into the old town. At the end of this street is the church of San Salvador, which dates from the 14th century.
Emily stopped us in what looked to be an alley at one side of which was a huge outdoor grill (?)
where she explained that Getaria is known for its fresh seafood, taken from fishing boats to one of these, grilled to perfection with only olive oil and salt, and served immediately with a very light local white wine called txakoli, to hungry patrons of the many restaurants in the city, like the one whose grill this is, is only steps from the marina (below). Yum!
Alas for us, lunch was not part of the tour, but a man can dream...
Then to our final destination, Zumaia. The city was packed for a festival of some kind, but we headed for the beach, or a spot well above the beach. You might call it Westeros, as part of an episode of Game of Thrones was shot here, when Daenerys Targaryen returned and walked along the beach.
Whether or not you are a fan of GoT, this is an awesome site, as it is situated on the longest set of continuous rock strata in the world, miles of wave-cut cliffs called flysch. Over millions of years these flysch were pushed up from the Bay of Biscay by tectonic shifts:
Reminds me at least a bit of dragons' talons or maybe teeth. right? Maybe what you'd look like if clawed by a dragon?
Well, perhaps I was a bit too influenced as a fan of GoT... Oh, yes, that's me looking a bit like the cat that swallowed the canary. Dramatic site, right? There are one or two more GoT sites along the coast, but too far afield for our tour. This one worked fine for me!
Even without the sea, the hillside above is a beauty...
And very nearby the Hermita San Telmo, a small chapel dedicated to the patron saint of sailors since the 17th century. Sadly it was not open to visitors, but what I call the "church on a perch" is lovely, and certainly set in a dramatic location.
Another view of San Telmo, where we ended our excellent tour, the sunny weather made the trip even more of a treat.
Emily dropped the Israelis at their hotel, then drove me to the edge of the old town, suggesting a few sights that I might like, so after sitting a bit near this colorful band shell, I wandered around.
A typical old town street scene:
And the church at the end of it, Santa Maria del Coro - a really dramatic facade:
It was mid-afternoon, and I found myself more than a tad peckish. There were almost too many restaurants to make my choice an easy one, so as I often do I kept strolling, reading outdoor menus and finally settled on a small cafe at one end of Constitution Square.
Variations on tuna salad are ubiquitous in Spanish menus. Mine was not really special, but fine and filling for me. The potatoes were delicious, and as usual the wine was fine.
I wandered a bit more, as the old town is very attractive, along a tree-lined street not unlike Las Ramblas in Barcelona.
Then returned to my hotel via the beaches, passing along the way another hotel, the eminent Londres located just off the long lovely boardwalk. Sad to say I had priced that hotel before the trip and while it might have afforded great views of the bay from its upper levels, there was no way my wallet could afford a room.
Then the beaches - what a difference a day makes! The next three photos show views from approximately the same three locations that I'd snapped the day before (scroll back up for the comparison):
And then to my room, my bed, and a well-deserved nap!
On my third and final day in this beautiful place I first hopped the funicular to the top of Mount Igueldo. Another sunny day, and, but for a little haze, perfect for views overlooking the bays and beaches San Sebastian.
The iconic shot:
looking out to sea, to the left:
and to the right:
There is a tacky, old-fashioned theme park at the top as well (closed that day), and a restaurant that features a terrace with a view.
I wandered around the peak for a bit, but as the line for coffee and a table was long, I assured myself that I had taken more than enough photos, took the funicular back down to the beaches.
From here I took a brisk walk the entire length of the boardwalk, admiring the beautiful arc of beaches,
ultimate destination? The old town, seen here below Mount Urgull
which I continued to explore. First, I had a look at the interior of Santa Maria del Coro
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for a Spanish Catholic church, whose interiors can be almost garishly overdone, somewhat understated. Once outside again I strolled more old town streets, just for the joy of it, rediscovering Constitution Square
but also searching menus, as lunchtime was approaching.
On the street above I found a place whose menu appealed to me. Its name is difficult to pronounce, but memorable. The service, fyi, was excellent as was the food. I recommend it!
I ordered hake with prawn, garlic and potatoes,
and washed it down with that great local wine, Txakoli:
Below, how to achieve the sparkling effect of what is not a sparkling wine. The pour from afar, by a handsome young fellow who knows what he's doing!
Ubarrechena is also a gelateria, and featured other delicious looking desserts, but I decided to walk off the main course before taking another nibble.
I had a look at the imposing City Hall from both sides
and took in a view of the city hall, Mount Urgull and its Sagrado Corazon (Sacred Heart) statue from from behind a friendly lion in a pretty park,
even stumbled upon a relatively peaceful political protest!
But left it in favor of a gelato, a very fine one, chocolate and pistachio, a favorite combo of mine:
Spent a bit of time in another charming park just outside of the old town
before calling it a day, the last of three of the happiest days in a very satisfying three-week trip. The rest of my time was spent relaxing in a grand city I'd already visited twice, Barcelona. But to read about that you need to open my next post. Salud!
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